Lead climbing is inherently more dangerous. Please stay safe. ATC is the only acceptable device for the Lead test. You must bring your own rope to Lead climb in the gym.

The following aspects will be assessed during the Lead test. Any questions or concerns must be raised to the examiner before the start of the test. No coaching may take place during test and examiners reserve the right to fail participants should their belying be deemed unsafe.

The Top Rope Belay test is a prerequisite for the Lead test.

 Safety Check
– Harness fits correctly and above hips.
– Waste belt double backed.
– Leg loops double backed.
– Harness not twisted.
– Carabiner attached to belay loop.
– Carabiner locked – squeeze test.
– Belay device attached to carabiner.
– Rope loaded correctly through belay device and carabiner.
– Correctly tie a double figure eight through the correct tie-in points.
– Stopper knot tied at end of figure eight.
– Knot tied close to harness.

Lead Belayer
– Clear communication before climbing.
– Spotting partner at start of climb.
– Gentle but controlled slack in belay system.
– Safe and controlled giving or taking of slack.
– Not letting go of the break end of rope during belaying.
– Instant lock off on fall.
– Slow and controlled lowering of climber.
– Constant communication between belayer and climber

Lead Climber
– Safe clipping between HIP and CHIN.
– Smooth, controlled clipping of quick draws.
– Clips EVERY quick draw – NO SKIPPING.
– NO back clipping or Z-Clipping.
– Clipping of both top anchors with gates apposing.

Upon completion of the test you will receive the following tag which must be worn at all times.

Lead climbing waiver: On passing the Lead Test, this needs to be signed by all climbers wanting to lead on the high walls.