Lead Climbing

Lead climbing is inherently more dangerous. Please stay safe. ATC is the only acceptable device for the Lead test. You must bring your own rope to Lead climb in the gym.

 
Lead climbers and belayers: you must pass our compulsory Lead test.
Upon completion of the test you will receive a Green Lead Test tag which must be displayed on your harness at all times and complete the Lead waiver.

The Top Rope Belay test is a prerequisite for the Lead test.

 
SAFETY CHECK FOR CLIMBER AND BELAYER
– Harness fits correctly and above hips.
– Waist belt and leg loops fitted snugly and double backed if applicable.
– Harness not twisted.
– Carabiner attached to belay loop.
– Carabiner locked – squeeze test.
– Belay device attached to carabiner.
– Correctly tie a double figure eight through the correct tie-in points.
– Stopper knot tied at end of figure eight.
– Knot tied close to harness.
– Buddy check.
– Clear communication before climbing.

 

LEAD BELAYER
– Proper spotting climber at start of climb.
– Keep slack in belay system to a minimum. Rope must never touch the ground.
– Safe and controlled giving or taking of slack.
– Not ever letting go of the brake end of rope during belaying.
– Instant lock off on fall.
– Belayer positioned close to the climbing wall.
– Slow and controlled lowering of climber.
– Constant visual communication between belayer and climber -stay focused.

 
LEAD CLIMBER
– Safe clipping between hip and head – avoid high clips.
– Smooth, controlled clipping of quick draws.
– Clip every quick draw – no skipping.
– No back clipping.
– No Z-Clipping.
– Clipping of both top anchor carabiners with gates apposed.

 

Lead climbing waiver: On passing the Lead Test, this needs to be signed by all climbers wanting to lead on the high walls.

Lead Climber Waiver